The journey began at a campsite just west of the famous "Tappizaki", the place where winds that start a journey blows, we woke up late and spent the next couple of hours arguing like we did (and will do) a lot, and by the time any actual walking started it was about ten thirty in the morning.
The walk was hard, very hard, half the day was spent walking in a ten percent incline up a mountain, but damn, what a beautiful mountain! Every time I stopped to catch my breath, I lost it to the view.
Nihon wa totemo totemo utsukushi desu.
We finally stopped to rest at the top of the mountain where a highly visited view point was located, and so as we set up our stove to cook some rice and make tea, a bus full of old Japanese ladies unloaded before us and we encounter our first taste of Japanese curiosity, and our favorite kind of Japanese person, the old lady.
We were swarmed with haste, questioned about our origin, where are we going, how heavy our bags, got photographed and lastly, showered with Japanese candy given to us for good luck. We in return gave them our Tomo no Note for them to sign in.
We camped there for a few hours (a bit too much, but we spent the time talking with random kind Japanese tourists) and when we left I felt much better as the rest of the was spent going down the mountain instead of up.
Our first night we spent next to a small waterfall we found on the side of the road as it got dark, and when we woke up we discovered it being another tourist spot when a bus (again, full of old Japanese ladies) stopped to allow his passengers to take pictures, although, in hind sight, they might just took pictures of the two strange foreigners brushing their teeth in the falls.
When we started walking the fatigue hit me hard, my whole body was aching and although Guy denied it, I'm sure his as well, we stopped for lunch in a town called Kodomari, I had a delicious plate of Japanese curry while guy ordered on a whim a plate filled with strange sliced sea creatures, I had a good lunch, he did not.
The rest of the day was spent walking, sticking close to route 339 and stopping just to rest my legs (since as it says in the title, I am not a fit man) and receiving random things from people along the way and wishes of good luck.
Come we discovered that we made a wrong turn and had to go back four kilometres back to the the right turn to route 12, eventually camping at the edge of a lake to spend the night.
The third day was the day my body screamed for rest. We woke up and my body ached like never before, I smeared my everything with Bengay and reluctantly left the nice lake towards the road.
At noon we found a small Ramen shop in the town of Shariki, run by the nicest old lady on the planet, we stopped for lunch and were showered with pampering and dishes "on the house", she questioned us on our journey and gave us directions and we ended up staying there probably way more than we should have. The rest of the day we spent trying to find a guest house or some kind of hostel to sleep in but after receiving directions from a drunk old man and walking two hours in a rice field we finally camped right next to the main road with our tent.
Day four was the marking of our rest. We started walking, still sad on the loss of the promised hotel and with very little water left in our packs, after about two hours of walking we stopped to fill our water at a gas station ran by a very angry man and two very nice female attendants, they told us the way to the nearest town and a couple of our later we were neck deep in the waters of a "public bath and spa". It was amazing. Revived every aching muscle and tendon in my body. From there we got directions to a nearby "Minshuku", a Japanese guest house, but when we finally arrived there we discovered it full. They kindly offered to give us a ride to the the hotel just up the road from there and we, tired and dreaming of a dry and warm bed, accepted.
And then we saw the hotel. expecting a small homely place with a few beds and a shower. we discovered "Grand Mer Ajigasawa" a five stars traditional Japanese style hotel that cost us about 300 dollar a night.
well, what the heck, YOLO and all that right? so we paid, we staid, we ate and used their in house hot spring, although we are now 30700 yen shorter, at least we didn't camp in the rain!